"A Linha" quer compreender melhor e ir aos confins da cultura surf e não só usar o nome "cultura" sempre entre aspas.
São os padrões comuns ás pessoas, que vivem a cultura surf, que definem a cultura surf. Entre outros factores, uma cultura é definida pelos significados que as pessoas atribuem ás coisas (signos).
Não posso desenvolver, muito profundamente, o assunto, pois não sou sociólogo nem antropólogo (nem nada acabado em "ólogo"!). Há quem seja e já o tenha feito.
"A Linha" wants to better understand and to go to the roots of surfing culture and not always have to use "culture" in inverted commas.
It's the common patterns, of the people who live the surfing culture, that define it. Among other factors, a culture is defined by the common meaning that several people give to something (signs
I can't go much further on this because I am not a sociologist or a antropologist. There are people who actually are one, and have made that
"A Linha" wants to better understand and to go to the roots of surfing culture and not always have to use "culture" in inverted commas.
It's the common patterns, of the people who live the surfing culture, that define it. Among other factors, a culture is defined by the common meaning that several people give to something (signs
I can't go much further on this because I am not a sociologist or a antropologist. There are people who actually are one, and have made that
Dan Webber, é formado em Linguística, um filósofo e surfista, claro. Entre diversos projectos, tem um livro publicado, chamado "Surfism - The Fluid Foundation Of Consciousness". Basicamente, o Surfismo é uma filosofia que vê a existencia humana, como o surf. Se quiserem ler um bocadinho fica o link, aqui.
Dan Webber is a Master in Linguistics, a philosopher and a surfer, of course. Among several of his projects is a book called "Surfism - The Fluid Foundation Of Consciousness". Surfism is a philosophy that sees human existence as surfing. If you want to read a bit, the link is here.
Sempre na senda da descoberta, "A Linha" pediu ao Dan que pensasse num signo, que achasse que era interpretado, da mesma forma, por todos os surfistas do Mundo.
Like an explorer as always, "A Linha" asked Dan to think of a sign that he thought it was interpreted the same way by surfers all around the world.
Ele respondeu: | Here is what he answered:
Like an explorer as always, "A Linha" asked Dan to think of a sign that he thought it was interpreted the same way by surfers all around the world.
Ele respondeu: | Here is what he answered:
"I remember in the late seventies, someone noted how so many surf films showed the sun descending quickly into the ocean. I suppose it would only have been surf films shot on east coasts. But, even so, it does signal a sense of being in tune with natural rhythms and perhaps, more specifically, a day lived in tune with the pulsing ocean".Thanks Dan!
Eu acho que ele está cheio de razão. O que acham? | I think he's fully right. What do you think?
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| Figueira da Foz, Abril 2005. O fim, de um dos meus melhores dias de surf de sempre. |
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